Watch Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful

Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful is a compelling documentary that delves into the life and legacy of renowned photographer Helmut Newton, whose provocative and often controversial work left an indelible mark on the fashion industry and visual arts. Directed by Gero von Boehm, the film unpacks Newton's influence and explores the complex personality behind the enigmatic camera lens.

Helmut Newton, born Helmut Neustädter in 1920 Berlin, emerged as one of the most influential photographers of the 20th century. His unique approach to fashion photography and portraiture was characterized by overtly sensual, sometimes erotic, and always bold and unconventional imagery. Newton's work broke boundaries and frequently sparked conversations around sexuality, power, and the female form, often polarizing audiences and critics alike.

The documentary, released in 2020, cleverly weaves together interviews from a variety of individuals who either knew Newton personally or were heavily influenced by his work. Among the prominent figures are celebrated actresses like Sigourney Weaver and Grace Jones, both of whom had been photographed by Newton. Their insights, along with those of musicians, models and other photographers, provide the viewer with diverse perspectives on Newton's impact on their own careers and the broader cultural landscape.

Through these interviews, the film paints a portrait of an artist who was as charismatic as he was demanding, capturing the essence of a man who could charm his subjects even as he pushed boundaries. Newton's ability to bring his distinctive vision to life led to iconic shoots with celebrities, models, and other notable figures, cementing his reputation.

In Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful, rare footage of Newton in action behind the camera is paired with a treasure trove of his famous photographs, hand-picked to showcase the breadth of his oeuvre. This visual exploration is eye-opening, as audiences get to experience first-hand the dynamic and often sensual energy of his shoots, and understand the intention behind some of his most controversial and boundary-pushing work.

Newton's love affair with the female form is a central theme of the documentary. His strong, provocative depictions of femininity stood apart from the more demure and conservative images often seen in fashion photography at the time. Newton's work went beyond mere provocations, engaging with themes of power dynamics, objectification, and female empowerment. This aspect is heavily discussed in the film, as several of the women who worked with him or admired his work reflect on the intersection between Newton's aesthetic and feminist thought.

Despite his passing in 2004, Newton's presence is felt throughout the film, both through archival footage and the resonant, sometimes raw recollections of those who interacted with him. The inclusion of his widow, June Newton (also known as photographer Alice Springs), adds an intimate dimension to the documentary, providing a personal glimpse into the substance of the man behind the camera.

The documentary does not shy away from the darker and more complex aspects of Newton’s personality and artistic practice. It addresses the accusations of misogyny that have been leveled against him due to the nature of his photography, giving voice to critiques that denounce some of his work as objectifying women. The film invites the audience to ponder the duality of Newton's character and work; hence the title, The Bad and the Beautiful, which encapsulates the dichotomy inherent in both his images and his personal reputation.

An intricate element of Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful is its exploration of the photographer's background. The film touches upon Newton's early years in Berlin, the rise of Nazism that forced him, as a Jew, to flee his home country, and his subsequent travels and professional development. This historical context provides a richer understanding of the forces that may have shaped his artistic vision and relentless drive.

The film also delves into the technical aspects of Newton's photography, offering aficionados an opportunity to understand his innovative lighting techniques, compositional choices, and the sheer artistry that went into creating his most famous tableaux.

Ultimately, Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful is a nuanced documentary that challenges its viewers to consider the complexities of an artist whose work can be seen as both exploitive and revolutionary. It celebrates Newton's genius while also confronting the elements of his work that remain contentious to this day. For fans of photography, art, and cultural history, this documentary is an insightful look at the man who redefined fashion photography and how his influence continues to reverberate through the creative world.

Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful is a 2020 documentary with a runtime of 1 hour and 29 minutes. It has received mostly positive reviews from critics and viewers, who have given it an IMDb score of 7.0 and a MetaScore of 65.